Places: Mbabane & Manzini, Swaziland

Swaziland is a country many people have never heard of. It is surrounded on all sides by the much more popular tourist destinations of South Africa and Mozambique — but Swaziland has a charm all it’s own. If you want to escape the every day life of “western” civilization, Swaziland’s pristine natural beauty (and lack of McDonald’s) will certainly leave you in awe.

Getting To/From:

Unfortunately South Africa’s backpacker-oriented Baz Bus no longer travels to Swaziland but you can find plenty of cheap bus lines and mini buses going to both Mbabane and Manzini from major cities in South Africa (Johannesburg and Durban) and Mozambique (Maputo).

Hiring a car in South Africa is generally affordable, but keep in mind that not all borders between Swaziland and it’s neighboring countries are open 24/7 and can often be crowded. Make sure to be aware of any visa restrictions before arriving at the border. And be weary when driving in Swaziland as it is a common occurrence to be pulled over by the police and asked to pay a “fine,” which then goes into their pockets!

Budget Accommodation:

If you want a true “African experience” I recommend staying in the Sondzela Backpackers. This is budget backpacker accommodation at it’s finest — located in the heart of Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. You will have warthogs and nyalas right outside the front door, not to mention a swimming pool, garden, braai (bbq) area and bar! There is also limited free parking and once at the hostel, you are just a short walk from the Mlilwane rest camp.

Budget Dining:

If you are feeling adventurous, Swaziland has loads of street vendors selling food alongside the main roads in town, including the infamous “walkie talkie” — fried chicken heads and feet. That certainly is not for everybody though, but just like every other country Swaziland has convenience stores and supermarkets so you can cook your own food or have a braai. If you want some simple fast food, you can try Pie King, where for a few lilangeni you can get yourself a decent (by fast food standards) steak & kidney pie.

Shopping:

Visit the Manzini Market to browse through a wide range of African handicrafts, local foods and even household items. If you plan to buy anything remember that it is very possible to negotiate prices, but keep in mind that while a few dollars means nothing to you, it could easily feed a family for several days!

If you are in Malkerns you will for sure want to swing by Swazi Candles. They handcraft beautiful candles of all shapes, sizes and figures. They make for wonderful and unique gifts from Swaziland!

Entertainment:

Malandela’s House on Fire – this is the place to crack a cold beer and get into the true Swazi spirit. It is an open venue where you will hear music, spoken word, poetry or anything at all and dance until the wee hours of the morning.

Game Parks:

Mlilwane – This is the most laid-back of the Big Game Parks. It is ideal for people who want to spend their time horseback riding, hiking, bird watching or taking low-key game drives. All activities can be arranged at the main rest camp.

Hlane – Hlane is the park for the real adventure seekers — this is where you pre-arrange game drives in Land Rovers with a guide who will get you upclose and personal with lions, cheetah and elephants! I find this the least accommodating of the parks so it is best left for a day trip.

Stone Camp at Mkhaya

Mkhaya – This is my favorite of the three game parks. I recommend splurging for a night and staying in the stone camp. You are literally within the park so don’t be startled to see an antelope while you are on the toilet or find that a monkey has thrown your toothbrush on the ground! It isn’t a rugged as it sounds as you are provided with comfortable beds and linens, mosquito nets and your room is lit up for you each night with kerosene lanterns by the wonderful Stone Camp staff. Each night a buffet-style meal is served around a campfire which may include impala, wildebeest or other (non-endangered/over-populated) game. Your stay at Mkhaya must be pre-arranged, as they only have certain pick-up and drop-off times at the main gate. You will not be disappointed with your stay at Mkhaya!